Trinity College

By Claire
Up early, as usual, we enjoyed a leisurely morning before hopping on the shuttle bus into Dublin. The bus driver kindly let us off at a corner where we could run the rest of the way and possibly make the 10:15 tour of Trinity College. We made it with seconds to spare.

For €10 each, which included the admission price to see the Book of Kells (€9 on its own), we had the time of our lives. James was funny, irreverent and very informative. He's one of the student guides who give a dozen tours a day and I think we lucked out. We loved him.



It's a fast tour, only 30 minutes, but it was perfect. The campus is beautiful, even under gray skies, and we enjoyed the history and the stories. James has passed all his examinations and will graduate in November.

Regent House


Trinity College was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I as the "mother of a university." It is Ireland's oldest university. Students are admitted tuition free; applicants have to compete for university places solely on the basis of the results of their end of school exams. In fact, when they apply they are identified only by number; so wealth, connection, and social status count for nothing. At graduation, they are called to walk across the stage according to their class rank rather than alphabetically. This is a strong incentive to study hard and prepare well.

We started in front of the campanile where we learned about the various buildings. One dorm houses only students who speak Gaelic.

Campanile


In one of the five large squares he pointed out the native to Oregon, Canadian Maple. It grows well here because the square is on marsh land, it is protected from wind all around by buildings, and they "get a bit of rain."



This is a statue of former provost George Salmon who completely opposed allowing women students at Trinity. He said there was no room for women and their ironing boards. In fact, in 1904 he swore they would only be allowed admission "over his dead body." Four days later he died of a massive heart attack and the next provost's first order of business was to allow women students.



James told us about housing for students. It's extremely difficult to score rooms but if you do, the worst one is the Rubrics Building. It has no central heating and no insulation. On top of that, the bathrooms are on the bottom floor and reached from outside through the blue door. The college's only scandal took place in this building. Edward Ford, one of the teachers, was highly disliked by most of the students and faculty. Someone had broken into his rooms so he kept a gun at hand to protect himself. On the night of March 6, 1734, as a prank, 4 very drunk students decided to annoy him by throwing rocks at his window, hoping to break it. He furiously told them to leave. They did not. He yelled at them again and then pulled his gun. They ran off, only to retrieve their own guns. A shoot out between the teacher and the students commenced. Edward Ford was killed, the students arrested and expelled, but found innocent because the judge felt it was just a student prank and an accident. Guns were no longer allowed on campus after this incident.



James' building was in the new square, quite large with big windows, central heat, bathrooms on every floor and a view of the square and the "losers in Rubrics."

Bram Stoker lived in this building. Other notable alumni in the fields of arts and sciences include Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, Dominic West (Actor), Samuel Beckett (Nobel Laureate in Literature), Ernest Walton (Nobel Laureate in Physics) and three holders of the office of President of Ireland, two of them women.



There are new buildings mixed with the old; this one is hugely disliked and referred to as the "copy machine building". I did like the sculpture in front, Sphere Within Sphere by Arnaldo Pomodoro. There are a number of these scattered throughout Europe.

Copy Machine Building




Fellows Square


Graduates' Memorial Building


Our tour ended at the Library where we could see the display of Irish medieval gospel manuscripts; the most famous, of course, is the Book of Kells. This illuminated (illustrated) version of gospels was written over 1,000 years ago when Ireland had a population of less than half a million people living in fortified homesteads along its coasts and inland waterways.

The life of Christ was spread primarily through gospel books, and the scribes and artists who produced them held an honored place in Irish society. The Book of Kells contains lavishly decorated copy, in Latin, of the four gospels. It has long been associated with St. Colum Cille (c 521-597 A.D.) who founded his principal monastery on the island of Iona, off the west coast of Scotland, in about 561. The Book of Kells was probably produced early in the 9th century by the monks of Iona, working wholly or partially at Iona itself or at Kells, county Meath, where they moved after 806 A.D.

It was fairly crowded; but I worked my way through the exhibit to the display. This was somewhat disappointing only because the manner in which it was displayed was frustrating. People were crowded around the large glass top table, moving in different directions. I was moving along with the crowd around the table, looking at the displays until I came up against a woman moving in the opposite direction. Stepping away meant losing my place and no one was letting anyone in. I can't stand the pushing and shoving that occurs in these situations. It would be nice if they could have displayed the articles in a long table with a one way direction. They managed this just fine for the Crown Jewels at Edinburgh Castle.

My favorite part of the library was the Long Room. 65 meters long and holding 200,000 of the Library's oldest books, it was simply awesome. There were many displays down the middle of the room with very steep bookshelves on either side. Irish-Indian relationships were highlighted in the current exhibition. One book on display--by Eamon De Valera, the first President of Ireland, advises Mahatma Gandhi of his options in taking on the British in India.

Long Room--no photos allowed, picture found online.


We left Trinity and walked to Merrion Square, a beautiful and very green park with meandering paths and lots of benches. It even had some flowers. My favorite was the statue of Oscar Wilde.



Can you find the forty colors of green?




We wandered some more, found a cheap place to grab a sandwich, then found the public bus stop for my return home. Chuck wanted to see the National Museum and I was ready to leave. One thing we have noticed about Dublin, it is a young city. There is a great nightlife here and plenty of backpackers around to enjoy it.





Chuck:

I went to the National Gallery, waiting for the National Museum to open: it was Sunday, and the times are somewhat restricted. I viewed selected works of Jack Yeats, W.B.'s painting brother. Prior to coming to Ireland, I did not know he had any siblings. Sadly, the National Library is closed on Sunday; so, I could not visit it. I wandered into the museum, only to find that there are four branches and I was in the Natural History building of the National Museum; I quickly left, since it was now after 2pm and the Archeology and History branch was now open--around the block. The most exciting artifact was the famous eighth century gold, enamel and amber Tara Brooch. I was impressed by the 15+meter unfinished dugout canoe--one of the world's longest. I enjoyed the exhibit on bogs and some of the famous well-preserved "bogmen." I was much surprised to discover that not all bogs are alike--the two sorts described in Ireland are raised and blanket. The reason they do such a good job of preserving things is that there is no oxygen in their "mud," tannic acid is present and bacteria cannot break the organic material down. I was greatly relieved to finally be able to sit down and watch a "filim" (that's Irish for 'film') describing the Viking influence on Ireland. I was particularly delighted to catch the recap of the Rock of Cashel; they were able to capture some of the artistic and architectural detail that you cannot see with the bare eye--we always seem to forget our single remaining (unstolen) binoculars.

National Museum of Archeology and History


It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either charming or tedious. ~ Oscar Wilde, Lady Windermere's Fan, 1892, Act I

A Walk Through Dublin

By Claire
Our campground had a great deal for getting us into the city. The Hop-on, Hop-off City Sightseeing, Dublin bus would pick us up at the campground and bring us back at 4:15. Door to door service at €4 each, round trip! We were dropped in the city center and with the help of a free map, we found our meeting point for another walking tour with our favorite group, Sandemans New Europe Tours. I think Dublin is working out to be the easiest city we have been in, in terms of finding our way. It's very walkable too.

We met up with our tour guide, Peter, and began our 3.5 hour tour with an 11,000 year history in 11 minutes. We started the walk with Dublin Castle, rather a disappointment since it has mostly been torn down with only a courtyard of Georgian style buildings and the former prison tower remaining. The buildings are currently used for fancy state and charity functions. One interesting fact is that the walls of the tower are 12 feet thick.



I really loved the beautiful grounds on top of the spot where the Poddle and Liffey Rivers came together making a black pool (Dubh Linn in Irish); thus the name Dublin. The grass has brick "river eels" snaking around with lights for eyes. The site now also serves as a heliport.



Peter showing us the serpentine design of the grounds.


Crossing the Ha'Penny foot bridge we learned that it is so named because of the amount of the toll charged. The story is that, years ago, the city demanded that the ferry owner either upgrade his dilapidated boat or build a bridge; he said he would be happy to build a bridge, provided that he could charge a fee for crossing. A half penny was the amount negotiated. The bridge survived, somewhat rickety, until the early 2000's when it was upgraded to its present status.



This is the General Post Office. It was on these steps that Patrick Pearse read the famed proclamation of Irish Independence in 1916. This started the Easter Uprising, a bloody, five-day failed revolt. The leaders were all executed. Originally, people were generally either apathetic or opposed to this radical group; but this act by the British led to a sympathetic turnaround in Irish sympathies to the movement. Ireland was forever and profoundly changed by these events. Bullet holes from the siege are still visible in the columns.



To get back to the other side, we walked over the O'Connell Bridge, wider than it is long. This bridge commemorates Daniel O'Connell, known as "The Liberator" for founding the Catholic Association and demanding Irish Catholic rights in the British Parliament. His is the house we wanted to see but couldn't find on the Ring of Kerry. This bridge spans the River Liffey which has historically divided the wealthy, cultivated south side form the poorer, cruder, north side. Even today the north is considered rougher and less safe.



We walked around the Temple Bar area which I really liked in spite of the crowds. This area is so named because of a sand bar that was used for loading and unloading of merchandise. William Temple, provost of Trinity College Dublin in 1609, had his house and gardens here and it is thought that the area was named after him. Unlike the areas surrounding it, Temple Bar has preserved its medieval street pattern, with many narrow cobbled streets.



Just before the crowds


Temple Bar Pub with picture of William Temple






We shoved our way through the growing hoards, noting the National Library with a W.B. Yeats exhibit, past the statue of Theodore Wolfe Tone, a leading figure in the United Irishmen Irish independence movement and regarded as the father of Irish republicanism. We ended at St. Steven's Green, lush, quiet and peaceful.







Peter invited us to a pub where we could get a discounted lunch. Most of us were starving by that time so we followed the group and enjoyed our meals at €10 each. Yes, Dublin is mighty expensive. We've heard that a pint will cost us €6.

My main impression of this city is of the crowds. I realize that it is July and the height of the season but it doesn't make it any easier. At times I felt like we were just slogging through masses of tourists and I had to ask myself, what are we doing here in yet another big city? The lack of color adds to my distress. I feel like I'm in a black and white movie.


All changed, changed utterly:
A terrible beauty is born.
~ W.B. Yeats, from his poem "Easter 1916" on the Easter Uprising in Ireland

On the Road to Dublin

By Claire
We were sorry to leave our campground with its view of the Rock and St. Mary's Abbey out the window of Homer. We really enjoyed the owner, Sean, who sat and talked with us at length, and the small size of the place. Our only neighbors were a friendly Dutch couple.

I wanted to stop in the town of Abbyleix, on the road to Dublin. My mother's family on her father's side came here back in the 18th century. I visited the town 21 years ago and found the family home, "The Hill", with the help of several people in town. I asked first at a news agent who sent me to the town librarian, Cathleen, who, believe it or not, was expecting me when I arrived. She told me about a guy named Paddy Mulhall. He was quite a character and practically ran the town. Not only was he the publican of Morrisey's, he was the Estate Agent, Insurance Agent, Auctioneer and Funeral Director. When we stopped in at Morrisey's, they all knew him of course, and told us he had died 5 years ago. I managed to find a photo of him online.



It was wonderful to find that the town hadn't changed as much as I had expected. We found Morrisey's right away, and then the Church of Ireland where I had searched for and found family graves so long ago.



I even managed to remember where the house was. It's greatly changed from the 19th century photograph my mother had but it was still fun to see it again. It was originally a stone house but has now been plastered over and painted. The enclosed front porch is an add-on. The stables out back are now used as garages and storage space. Funny thing about the name, it's hardly a hill, more of a mound, which is why it was easy to find again.

The Hill, 2010


Chuck ordered a glass of Guinness and I ordered a glass of Smithwick. We were driving on, after all. I give Chuck credit for being able to order the less manly glass rather than a pint. The bartender was impossible to comprehend but we were able to understand a few words here and there from the guy on the stool next to us. Later, Johnny walked in and the bartender said something like "hi'a Johnny, pint?" then grabbed a glass and headed straight for a particular draught. We did manage to find out that Morrisey's is 375 years old.





This is the other side of the bar; it doubles as a small grocery with cereal, beans, candy, and small bottles of 7-Up and other sodas.


The Main Street


We're now comfortably ensconced at our Dublin campground, Camac Valley Tourist Caravan & Camping Park, €25. It's wonderful, has free WiFi and we seem to have our very own private backyard.

Chuck, enjoying the intermittent sunshine.


Two shorten the road. ~ Irish proverb

The Rock of Cashel

By Chuck
We decided, en route, to go to our campground, Cashel Lodge and Camping Park, €25, before seeing the Rock of Cashel, since there was a parking fee there and we thought we could simply walk from the campground. We were right! Furthermore, the town centre is also walkable—from either the campground or the site.

Holly, West Highland Terrier, the Campground Dog—No more cats for awhile, I guess


Our camper, seen from the Rock of Cashel


Ever since reading Peter Tremayne’s Sister Fidelma series, I’ve wanted to see the Rock of Cashel. I came knowing that the 7th century AD time period of interest to me left no excavated artifacts; and I was prepared to simply walk around and take in the view from outside the walls. But, as we approached the site, Claire said it would be a shame to come so near and not see it up close. I had to agree. It turned out to be a memorable site, thanks largely to an hour long tour by Brighid (pronounced ‘Breed’) and a 20 minute video giving an overview of the history of the place.

The place has stunning vistas, which are lovely today; but this is far from the original defensive purposes of the Rock upon the strategic high ground. St. Patrick baptized King Aengus here in ~450 AD. The legend is that old St. Patrick was nervous about the ceremony and accidentally speared the king’s foot with his crozier staff. The king, thinking this was part of the rite, suffered stoically until the end. It is not recorded whether St. Patrick converted any other pagans later that day.

I thought the Round Tower was particularly impressive. It was the first structure completed after the transfer of the property to the Church in 1101. It was built with “dry” stone construction—it used no mortar at all, and yet it has survived all these years. [In recent years, mortar has been added in some areas, to ensure the survival of the tower and the safety of tourists.]

Bishop's House on left, attached to Cathedral on right


Round Tower of Cashel


I should point out how helpful Rick Steves was, once again, when he warned about the cold, windy weather atop the Rock. We wore a second layer and caps; Claire also wore gloves. Bad weather caused the Archbishop to move from the Rock into the town below several hundred years ago, and one particularly severe storm caused a large piece of the wall to fall more than a century ago. It sits on the site as a visual reminder of how serious weather conditions here can be.

There is a replica of the coronation rock that is supposed to have been used for all Irish Kings in Munster from an early time until the Normans conquered the area around the 12 century. This also served as their safety deposit box—it is hollow on the bottom and was used to hide small valuables in times of war. On top is a replica of the 12th century Cross of St. Patrick—the originals of the rock and the cross are inside the museum.

Original St. Patrick’s Cross


Some believe that if you can reach all the way around the Cross of St. Patrick, you will never again have a toothache. Further, if you can hop around the cross 9 times, counterclockwise, you will be married within a year. [There was no explanation of what happens if you are already married. Wait a minute: If you are married and hop around the cross, then you are already married within a year; right?]

Replica of St. Patrick’s Stone Cross


For many years, approximately 5th century AD to 1101, this was both the seat of monarchy and ecclesiastical power, residing in one person. When King Murtagh O’Brian feared he would lose his power and the Rock to his rival, the McCarthy clan, he gave the site to the Catholic Church, earning favor on that front and guaranteeing that no one else could have it.

Across the field from our camping spot are the remains of the 13th century [first Benedictine, then Cistercian] St. Mary’s Abbey (a.k.a Hore’s Abbey, so called because the Cistercian monks wore simple gray robes about the same color as hoarfrost—the ice crystals that form on morning grass). The resident Archbishop, a wealthy landowner, said he had a dream in which the Benedictines murdered him. This caused him to evict the introspective Benedictines and invite in the hard-working, agricultural Cistercians. It’s just wonderful when the pious are rewarded by the turnings of fate.

St. Mary’s Abbey


We were cold and hungry after the tour and walked into town to find Feehan’s Bar. The food was lovely; but neither of us could finish the generous portions. We forewent our original choice of ales for something warmer—tea for me and cappuccino for Claire.

Claire’s seafood chowder with a mound of cheese on top and tomato cheese soda bread on the side.


Chuck’s triple club sandwich with bacon, lettuce, tomato and egg. It came with chips and cole slaw.


Digging through the very thick chowder, Claire discovered more treasures down below.


Irishness is not primarily a question of birth or blood or language; it is the condition of being involved in the Irish situation, and usually of being mauled by it. ~ Conor Cruise O'Brien