Saturday, September 20, 2014

Loubressac to Gluges, 14 km (8.68 miles), Day 5

We joined our bags today in a ride to Carennac, the start of our walk.  Our bags rode with the driver the rest of the way to our final destination.  Carennac is another of the "most beautiful villages in France" and I'd have to agree.  We walked around this medieval town perched on a cliff above the Dordogne.  Beautiful.

We walked up the lane and through the village to a leaf covered trail with a tiny, cool breeze.


We stepped out of the leaf covered trail to this interesting country home.  The weather was mostly perfect today.  After yesterday evening's torrential downpour, everything was fresh and soft.

 These ladies were so cute.

We shouldn't have been surprised that this was our best picnic yet.  Especially after our superb dinners at our last hotel.  The sandwiches even had sweet, juicy cherry tomatoes and the dessert tasted like a cross between pear pie and creme brulee.  We scored a wonderful picnic table, thanks to Peter and Marilyn, who are responsible for us even being on this trip.  Their pictures sold us.

View from our lunch spot 

 Just another gorgeous farm house along the way

We have walked through and around more corn that I ever expected.  I had no idea the French grew so much!

Our hotel.  What a welcome sight.  Our hostess, Francoise, asked us if we wanted something to drink.  I know we looked completely bedraggled.  We sat on the patio with some Orangina--2 for Chuck.  She does not speak English and we don't speak French, but we were able to communicate and understood that she was inviting us to join 5 others for a walk through the village of Gluges tonight before dinner.  We accepted.

We met Dominique, the cook, who walked just the two of us through the town, pointing out various historical sites such as a former castle from the 12th century.  We walked to the church that was built into the rock caves--the door key was enormous, and we went into the back where it merged with the rock.  We also walked through the new church, built in 1906.  Edith Piaf had visited the village and saw that the church needed to restore the stained glass.  She told them she would pay for it as long as they kept it anonymous.  They did, until after her death when they named the lane leading to the church, Edith Piaf Place.She told us there are 17 people who live in the village.  Her English was certainly better than our French, but it was a challenge that we managed to overcome.

Later, we went for dinner at 8 pm.  The little restaurant was charming and welcoming.  Dominique sat us at a table for two then proceeded to tell us the menu.  Cassoulet, goat cheese and dessert.  We asked for a half bottle of red wine.  She took care of everything.  Our wine came in a little pitcher and she brought us our usual request for tap water.  It was nice and icy cold.

The cassoulet was phenomenal and a specialty of southern France.  It had duck, sausage, something that resembled bacon, and white beans.  Yum.  Comfort food.

Dominique.  What a lovely woman.

This was our cheese course.  The eyes and mouth were honey.  Dominique wagged her finger at me when I couldn't finish the cheese.  I indicated that I was waiting for dessert.

Amazing cake with dark chocolate on top, set in a pool of custard sauce.

This sweet family was at the table next to us and they were celebrating their three children's 18th birthday.  I took this picture from our table then showed it to them and had one of the boys' send it to himself via email.  Their mother told us that they were each born 2 minutes apart with their daughter the first born.

We just can't get over the incredible experiences we are having.  We are so lucky.


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